MOROCCO: Trip Report & List

March 21 - April 4, 2004

Day 1... Sunday March 21st :
Lac du Sidi Bourhaba; Mehdiya

Said and Phil eventually met up with the American contingent at the airport after the rather tardy arrival of their flight. Phil had mooched around the airport grounds during the wait recording the first birds of the trip, including common quail (heard only), nightingale (heard only), greenfinch, spotless starling and a number of other common species. As we packed the minibuses pallid swifts flew overhead and single house martins and little swift were seen.

Most chose to snooze during the 1.5 hour drive to Rabat, roadside birds included crested lark, corn bunting, calandra lark and a continuous barrage of the monotonous song of the fan-tailed warbler (or zitting cisticola if you prefer). We did not stop long in Rabat but quickly checked into the hotel, dropped off our bags and headed back to the vans for the drive to Lac Sidi Bourhaba. On arrival it became apparent that it was a rather popular weekend destination for quite a few local people. Despite the incredible din we managed to see a number of great birds.

Our first stop allowed us views of the red-knobbed coot (which was to be commonplace today) and also a fine marsh harrier (again one of many). The eucalyptus trees surrounding the lake held our first African blue tit, great tit and a number of chiffchaff. The small pools north of the causeway yielded a sleeping marbled duck, black-winged stilt and overhead black kites and white storks soared. Further along the lake there were a few rafts of duck, mostly common pochard but with a scattering of tufted ducks and about three fine ferruginous duck. But the big shock was a female white-headed duck that skulked along at the back of the lake, giving us a real hard job of determining that it was pure bred and not a hybrid with that cad of the duck world – the North American ruddy duck! Great to see this bird in Morocco, where it is a bit of a rarity.

To kill time before the hoped-for marsh owl display at dusk we headed to the nearby estuary and sea, picking up a few new birds including lesser black-backed gull and some very distant oystercatchers. Views out to sea where difficult due to poor light and there was no wind at all which gave us little confidence in seeing any seabirds. Most of us turned round and examined the spotless starlings on the nearby buildings. Eventually we headed back to the lake and admired the flock of marbled teal, a pair of gadwall and finally as dusk fell Adrian drew our attention to a spectacular marsh owl that flew over head and then quartered a nearby marshy area briefly. A fine end to the first day of the trip.

Day 2......... Monday March 22nd
Forest de Zaers; Merdja Zerga; Moullay Boussellham

A very early start saw us heading for the royal forest of the Zaërs for a rendezvous with double-spurred francolin. Dawn broke as we arrived and we were soon listening to a variety of birds including our big target bird. Sadly hearing it was all we were going to do for despite a number of hours of trying to coax one into view we failed to actually see one. Plenty of other birds to see here though with bee-eater, chaffinch, thekla lark and woodpigeon. We also heard Barbary partridge, cuckoo, robin and nightingale. The best bird by far being a spectacular black-crowned tchagra singing its incredibly powerful song and showing very well. Before long though it was time to return to the hotel and have a late breakfast before heading slowly out of town through the almost impenetrable traffic.

First stop in the Merdja Zerga area was the seafront where we gazed out to sea whilst lunch was prepared. Sandwich terns loitered just offshore. A distant jaeger appeared briefly and a trickle of northern gannets could be seen heading north. Rather surprisingly 14-15 night herons also flew past well out to sea and also heading north. The nearby cliffs and bushes also produced evidence of migration in action with at least four subalpine warblers and a Sardinian warbler, and a number of chiffchaff – all of which showed extremely well. Audouin’s gulls proved plentiful here also but mostly gave flight views.

After lunch we walked up the hill to survey the estuary and had very distant views of a group of flamingos and a hunting male Montagu’s harrier. This glimpse spurred us on to get down to the waters edge and we were soon watching a number of shorebirds including curlew sandpiper, little stint, ruff, curlew, grey plover and greenshank. Bird of the day materialised in the form of a stunning encounter with a male Montagu’s harrier that swept past us really close. Other birds seen during this period included a little owl, a pair of woodchat shrike and our first wagtails (both yellow and white) and pipit (meadow). Eventually we dragged ourselves away to have a look at the southern end of the marsh before dusk. Our first stop yielded our first good views of crested lark and a number of sand martins were obvious over the nearby marsh. Walking across the fields here just before dark afforded us views over another lagoon which held large numbers of Kentish and ringed plovers, as well as sanderlings and little stint. We also enjoyed watching a peregrine buzzing a marsh harrier and discussed large falcon identification whilst examining the bird when it perched. As dusk fell we headed back to Kenitra for dinner and a well-earned rest!

Day 3....... Tuesday 23rd March
Volubilis; Fez

Up early again and into the buses for the drive to Volubilis. We made two stops en route familiarising ourselves with several new birds, including alpine swift and house bunting and also getting better views of some we were becoming familiar with already including white stork and lesser kestrel.

© J&A Binns

After driving up into the foothills of the Middle Atlas we eventually came to the Roman ruins at Volubilis and wandered around with a guide. An interesting set of ruins was livened up by the presence of blue rock thrush, southern grey shrike, linnet, little owl and a number of blackcaps.

After lunch we drove onto Fez for a touristic tour of the old city that saw us trooping through the medina and experiencing the sights, sounds and smells of this bustling area. The tannery was an incredible place and the smell was unbelievable!

Day 4 ... Wednesday 24th March
Dayet Aouoa; Forest de Cedars; Lac de Aguelmana; Zeida Plain

Today we headed into the hills stopping first at Dayet Auoua, a lake surrounded by forest and heaving with birds. We quickly picked up short-toed treecreeper, great-spotted woodpecker, hawfinch and firecrest in a flurry of activity and then located a pair of Levaillant’s green woodpecker as they flew across the lake away from us. We coaxed the male in by tape and he gave startling views at very close range – calling and drumming all the time.

Moving on we looked out over the lake and spotted four garganey amongst the shoveler. Booted eagles, black kites and long-legged buzzards soared overhead on occasion. We stopped by a hoopoe and walked on up the track snatching brief views of an unobliging pair of woodlark before being distracted by a superb black-eared wheatear and then a splendid female ring ouzel. Flocks of linnets were apparent here and the first male blue rock thrush of the trip appeared on a distant crag. Driving on a short distance we stopped briefly to watch rock sparrows, short-toed treecreepers, common redstart and a fine singing male cirl bunting, before moving onto the next stop.

We drove on into the Forest of Cedars until we hit the tame herd of Barbary macaque (ugly brutes) and stopped here for lunch. This stop proved good for birds. Raptors and ravens were much in evidence in the skies above us. Bob pulled out a fine male Moussier’s redstart for us all and a nuthatch lead us a merry dance amongst the towering cedars.

On the long drive to Midelt, we stopped briefly at the Lac de Aguelmane where we shivered in the brisk breeze at this high altitude lake. Ruddy shelduck were much in evidence and our first black wheatear and red-billed chough put in an appearance. More Moussier’s redstarts were spotted and whilst driving we picked up our first northern wheatears of the race seebohmi (surely a tick for the future that one).

Our last stop was the Dupont’s lark site where we intended to spend the early morning of the next day. We hoofed around in the desert for a while hoping for a glimpse of the lark but only succeeded in finding a pair of red-rumped wheatears – adequate compensation. Finally at dusk we headed off for the last few kilometres to the hotel for an early night before our early start in the morning.

Day 5 ....... Thursday 25th March
Zeida Plain; Gorge de Ziz; Meski; Rissani; Erfoud

Today started extremely early as we had to locate Dupont’s lark singing pre-dawn! We arrived at the appointed place (Zeida) and when we piled out of the vans we could hear plenty. We set off across the steppe and stood waiting for dawn in a suitable place and as soon as it became light we played the tape and we did not have to wait long before he came running in and Colin spotted him singing from the top of a bush. We could not believe our good fortune we had scored this difficult bird in just 20 minutes. This left us a bit of time before breakfast to explore the track. Further along we stopped and watched lesser short-toed lark, red-rumped wheatear, desert wheatear, Temminck’s lark and the first of the days black-bellied sandgrouse. Dragging ourselves away we headed for the hotel and breakfast – a sumptuous affair with omelettes!

The long drive to Erfoud was made with just a few stops. First stop was to get better views of black-bellied sandgrouse which flew close by the group and then we stopped a little further on and Alison spotted our first greater short-toed larks. A stop at the Gorges de Ziz produced some bona fide rock doves and a fleeting crag martin. Lunch was taken later by the side of the road and birding the agricultural fields produced our first laughing dove and white-crowned black wheatear and a selection of migrants was also present. Overhead several flocks of bee-eaters could be heard flying north.

Driving on we eventually reached Erfoud and elected to check out the track to Merzouga before taking to the landrovers. But the strong wind that had become apparent during the day was blowing dust and sand around so much we elected to turn back and head for Rissani. En route Van 1 managed to get views of two blue-cheeked bee-eaters but Van 2 were thwarted because a large tree was in the way. At Rissani we chased migrants around in the palms and fields out of the wind recording willow warbler, garden warbler and subalpine warbler.

Arriving back at Erfoud to transfer to the landrovers we were surprised to come across a number of blue-cheeked bee-eaters in the town centre which were obviously intent on roosting. The flock totalled over 20 birds when we left it to drive into the incredible Auberge Derkaoua which was to be our home for the next two nights. A luxury after the peripatetic behaviour of the last few days. Laundry! The food here was splendid and we all went to bed hoping that the wind would drop in the morning and all would be well.

Day 6 .... Friday 26th March
Kasbah Derkaoua wadi; Kasbah Said; Kasbah Yasmina; 5km West of Rissani

Today dawned reasonably clear but the wind had barely dropped and we feared that minor sand storms might occur and we were right. But for the moment all was relatively tranquil. Before breakfast we headed up the wadi past the nearby radio mast and bumped into some new migrants including western Bonelli’s warbler and a stunning wryneck. Tape playback revealed the presence of fulvous babbler but it took some time before we could locate them let alone get good views. But eventually they sat up and glared at us from the bushes and palm trees. Well satisfied with this start to the day we headed back for a big breakfast. Straight after eating we headed out to the nearby Kasbah Said, stopping briefly to admire our first hoopoe larks and delight at their looping display antics.

Arriving at the Auberge we quickly started to bird the nearby wadi. Almost immediately Ron located a pair of African desert warblers and we had excellent views for fifteen minutes as the pair fossicked around in nearby bushes. Two of us even managed a female desert sparrow here but it quickly disappeared. We could not believe our good fortune but as we congratulated ourselves it became apparent that the weather was taking a turn for the worst and the sand started to move. We elected to drive straight to our next bird (desert sparrow) and the conditions were amazing at some stages visibility was reduced to 20-30 yards but the drivers took us unerringly straight to Kasbah Yasmina! How they did it we will never know.

Conditions on arrival were poor but some headed straight out and were rewarded with views of a female desert sparrow and a number of migrants were also present here including common redstart and more western Bonelli’s warblers. In the poor conditions we struggled to nail down a desert warbler and so after a coke and a coffee we headed out to find a camel rest area and we did not have to wait long before a fine male desert sparrow flew in and started to feed around the ruminating camels. How good was that? Running well ahead of schedule in terms of target birds we headed into Rissani for a necessarily leisurely lunch of BBQ chicken and french fries.

After lunch we navigated out of Rissani and headed for the desert eagle owl site. As we got nearer one of the landrover drivers started doing an impersonation of the eagle owl and we were overjoyed that he said we could drive up the wadi almost to the bird! No hard slog for us. We stopped about 200 yards short and walked into a stiff breeze until we reached the right spot. We could tell we had arrived because James Lidster (Sunbird) had left a message delicately made of rocks with an arrow pointing to the birds hideaway. Colin beat us to the hiding place and pretty soon we were all looking at an incredibly feline face staring at us from a small hole in the cliff face. What a day! All we had to do now was head back to the Kasbah for a rest-up before the dusk nightjar session. We all assembled in good time just outside the Kasbah walls, well sheltered from the wind, and waited for dusk with the Sunbird crew. Just at 7.00 pm the Egyptian nightjar came in close in response to a brief burst of tape playback. The spotlight picked it out and we all had time to get on it before it melted back into the gloom. We had another brief glimpse and then nothing. Not a bad end to the day!

Day 7 ..... Saturday 27th March
6km South of Erfoud; West of Jorf; Gorge du Todra; Tagdilt Track

A dawn start saw us searching the desert between the kasbah and Erfoud for cream-coloured coursers. We failed to find any but did get more views of short-toed lark, desert wheatear and also found two Kentish plovers just standing around in the desert. Reluctantly we left for breakfast and were reunited with our minibus drivers. The rest of the day was spent driving towards Boulmanes Dades. We made a number of stops, just outside Erfoud we finally all got good views of blue-cheeked bee-eater, the birds sitting up on wires by the road. A little further along we came across some European bee-eaters and got our first good views of them also (although recorded on most days until now they had just been seen migrating north overhead).

About half way to the Gorges du Todhra we stopped by a small rock outcrop and a quick walk around here revealed trumpeter finch, bar-tailed lark and some migrants including a large dark northern wheatear that was almost certainly of the Greenland race.

Arriving at the gorge we disembarked and took a short walk through. Along the stream a number of grey wagtails were present and crag martins zipped overhead and along the cliffs. Over lunch we birded the upper part of the gorge picking up black wheatear and a very mobile barbary ground squirrel. A short walk afterwards produced the hoped-for desert lark and a fleeting glimpse of a Bonelli’s eagle.


© J&A Binns

Moving ever on we stopped briefly to take photographs of the impressive palmerie at Tinehir and made a booze stop to stock up before getting to our ‘dry’ hotel. Just before Boulmanes we headed off down the Tagdilt track to the rubbish dump (very picturesque with the plastic bags fluttering in the strong breeze - not). But there were birds here and in the brief time we spent here we all got to grips with Temminck’s lark (feeding fledged young) and thick-billed lark – a male also feeding three fat, fledged youngsters. This brief introduction to the Tagdilt Track made us look forward to the morning when we would be scouring the area more thoroughly and hoping for more larks, sandgrouse and perhaps a courser.

Day 8...... Sunday 28th March
Tagdilt Track; 55km East of Ouarzazate; Kasbah Skoura; Barrage El Mansour

This morning we all woke to the sound of rain!! We really were experiencing all the weather had to offer. After an early coffee we headed out into the steppe and fortunately the rain stopped but many of the small wadis that had been bone-dry yesterday were now flowing. Birding was tough, the wind was blowing and birds were mostly huddled up under bushes. We did manage to see a male Montagu’s harrier, and more black-bellied sandgrouse, hoopoe larks and Temminck’s lark though before breakfast.

After a breakfast shared with the Limosa group we headed back to the vans for the drive to Ouarzazate. The rain started in earnest again and at one point we watched with amazement as a wall of hail approached us up the road. We stopped for a windy but mercifully dry spell of searching for mourning wheatear and eventually after a bit of a run-around most of us managed to get views of the bird and plain martin was a surprise here too. Next stop was lunch near an abandoned kasbah and then we visited the nearby Skoura kasbah in the rain for a quick guided tour. A flock of bee-eaters driven from the sky by the weather festooned a nearby palm tree and provided a spectacle for us and the locals who had a look through the scope.

Driving on we drove through puddles and flowing wadis to get to Ouarzazate and our final birding stop on the Barrage el Mansour. Most elected to go back to the hotel after a rather breezy and exhausting day but a plucky few braved the walk down to the waters edge and were rewarded with good birding and a bit of sun. Along the drain here we found a number of shorebirds including our first wood sandpipers and as dusk fell a huge flock of 500 white stork came in to roost. Also of interest here were some spoonbills, western reef heron and a marbled duck. A really enjoyable end to the day.

Day 9..... Monday 29th March
20km South of Amergzane; Ait Benhaddou; 6km South of Amergzane; Marrakesh 138.5km; Tiz-n-Tichka; Oukaimeden

Today we had a leisurely departure and drove up to Ait Ben Haddou, en route we made a stop by the movie studio, whilst the other van went back to the hotel to look for a misplaced camera – all was well, it was eventually found in the van! Another stop was made 20 km south of Amergzane for photos but as we all got out of the van a cream-coloured courser appeared and was joined by a female much displaying ensued whilst we admired them. Moving on we arrived at Ait Ben Haddou – the World Heritage kasbah site – to find that the wadi was running from all the rain over the last few days. We elected to admire it from a distance and look around the shops/bushes depending on our persuasion. Birds here included melodious warbler, nightingale, common redstart and a number of Phylloscopus warblers, including western Bonelli’s.

Driving ever on we stopped about 6 km south of Amergzane to look for mourning wheatear and very quickly located a very cooperative male, which was seen by all. Rather easier than yesterdays bird which gave us a bit of a run-around. Another stop 138 km from Marakesh really produced the goods with great views of barbary partridge, western olivaceous warbler, reed warbler, and skulking Cetti’s warbler and nightingale that mostly failed to show. Well pleased we headed up to the Tiz-n-Tichka and stopped just afterwards in the bitter cold for lunch. Here we had migrating Montagu’s harriers, our first black redstarts and a flock of rock sparrows. Pushing on we headed up to Oukaimedan – this long drive was punctuated with occasional roadside birds but we just kept driving.

Climbing up to Oukaimadan it quickly became apparent that the place would be shrouded in cloud and sure enough when we got to the top visibility was poor and a lot of fresh snow lay on the ground. Undismayed we togged up and headed out for some birding. We were rewarded with great views of a frisky pair of dippers, heard our first wrens and all got views of black redstart and shore lark. It had become a nightly occurrence to hope for better weather and we went to bed hoping for a clear bright morning and a chance of our two target birds alpine accentor and the incomparable crimson-winged finch.

Day 10.... Tuesday 30th March
Oukaimeden; Tiz-n-Test; Taroudannt


Alpine Accentor
© J&A Binns

Today we woke to low cloud and a dusting of snow! What a trip! Before breakfast we wandered about near the ski-lifts checking out the shore larks, black redstarts and rock sparrows.

Small flocks of alpine chough drifted out of the mountains and settled in the village, squabbling over rubbish and other tidbits. After breakfast we headed up the hill behind the village and succeeded in seeing winter wren (heard only yesterday) and a superb alpine accentor.

By now the cloud had lifted and the sun shone down on us. Views were variable depending on the moment, changing swiftly from breathtaking to non-existent. Walking back down we searched the area around the village before loading the bags onto the buses and walking downhill for about 1 km. This produced an adult golden eagle and the same pair of dipper as yesterday (nest-building). Try as we might though we could not locate any crimson-winged finches – the search possibly being hampered by the extent of the snow coverage.

Driving down we found three Levaillant’s woodpeckers perched in roadside trees and then drove on to try and cover some distance before lunch. Lunch was taken in a stunted pine forest that yielded a surprising number of birds. Tristram’s warbler was heard and eventually seen reasonably well. Western orphean warbler appeared for the first time as did a brief Dartford warbler. Fantastic stuff. Continuing on we climbed the windy road through small villages and terraces to the top of the pass. We stopped briefly at the Tiz-n-Test and had an obliging rock bunting before continuing on to a site that Said knew held Tristram’s warbler. Sure enough he quickly found one and we all got good views as it perched on the top of a bush. That just left the final two hours of the journey to Taroudannt and the welcoming and comfortable hotel run by Latifa (Said’s wife).

Day 11...... Wednesday 31st March
Ouled Brahim; Igli; Igoudar; Aoulouz Gorge; 5km West of Taroudannt

Those up early watched birds from the rooftop – getting good looks at house bunting, red-rumped swallow and other denizens of the town. After a 0730 breakfast we headed out of town and spent some time birding in the fields nearby. This gave us all a chance to catch up with some birds we had been hearing and glimpsing from the vans including zitting cisticola (which showed well), cirl bunting and black-shouldered kite. Roadside stops en route to our next site produced short-toed and booted eagle, black kite and long-legged buzzard. We spent some time scanning the skies from a small hillock at Igoudar but failed to add to our raptor tally – species such as tawny eagle and dark chanting goshawk have sadly become very scarce in Morocco in the last decade. Lunch was taken under an argan tree and in the ‘forest’ here we managed to find a whitethroat and Fred scared a goat clean out of a tree.

Next we moved onto Aoulouz gorge where we walked for a couple of hours. The gorge contained a breeding pair of booted eagle – a bird we were beginning to get quite familiar with. Also here we had a number of heron species, moustached warbler, sedge warbler and reed warbler. Some of us managed to get great views of nightingale but the Cetti’s warblers present eluded us all. Eventually we turned back to the hotel and had another great evening meal – Latifa really was looking after us.

After dinner we got back into the vans for a quick shuttle to a site 5 km outside town where we hoped to see some nightjars. Unusually we heard European nightjar here before finding a pair of red-necked nightjars calling and sitting on the track. We managed to approach the female to within a metre and all had great views and many photos were taken. In the distance we could hear stone curlews but failed to draw any near with a tape. An excellent end to the day.

Day 12..... Thursday 1st April
Agricultural fields around Freija; Tiouti Palmery

Today we made a leisurely start and headed back out into the agricultural fields around Taroudannt. Here we found many of the same birds as yesterday but also managed to see some fly-by Spanish sparrows (not very satisfying), corn bunting (well) but even better were the flight views of common quail which came in close to tape but would not show itself until flushed in exasperation! Moving on we walked another track hoping for views of stone-curlew but the recent rain had made the habitat unsuitable and we failed to find any. There was however plenty to look at including a fine perched black-shouldered kite. The fields here were yellow with wildflowers and looked particularly stunning against the backdrop of the High Atlas.

En route to the palmerie at Tiouti we stopped at the women’s co-operative and watched them cracking open argan nuts and then went to sample and buy some of the oil and other goodies in the nearby shop. Lunch was taken on the edge of the palmerie and afterwards we walked around finding a few birds including western orphean warbler, good views of turtle dove and fantastic views of a very obliging black-crowned tchagra. After a good walk about we headed back to the vans for an early return to base before our shopping expedition into the souk. The shopping trip was very successful with kelims, carpets, slippers, basketware and ceramics all bought from the thronging market and we all left feeling like we had got a bargain!

Day 13..... Friday 2nd April
Agadir caost; Arghoud Beach; Tamri; Cape Rhir; Souus Estuary

We really enjoyed our last Taroudannt breakfast and all regretted having to leave this splendid haven tucked away in the heart of this quintessentially Moroccan city. However it was time to head for our last big bird – the bald ibis. Driving to Tamri took some time, with frequent stops made to examine raptors. En route we also stopped at a beach in Agadir and another further up the coast. The latter produced an oystercatcher and a good flock of gulls and terns – including a number of Audouin’s gulls. Arriving at Tamri we quickly spotted a number of spoonbill (including two ringed birds whose rings could be read) and then Adrian spotted a group of about 20 bald ibis feeding on the opposite hillside. We had scored. A number of these birds flew over our heads whilst we lunched and gave excellent views.


© J&A Binns

Driving south we stopped off at Cap Rhir in the hope of some sea-watching but the light had taken a turn for the worse and we could only pick out the gannets that were passing in good numbers. Our last stop of the day was a quick visit to the Souss estuary (near our hotel). Here we got close views of a number of shorebirds including whimbrel, bar-tailed godwit and red knot. Other highlights included a number of slender-billed gulls, good views of flamingos and a group of at least 8 stone curlew.

Day 14........ Saturday 3rd April
Massa

Today we headed to the Massa estuary area. First we birded a series of vegetated pools and adjacent farmland, then we stopped briefly at a bridge and finally we walked along the track through the reserve and made it all the way to the sea. In the farmland we got good views of plain martin and Cetti’s warbler, but bluethroat and spotted crake were much more elusive. The reedbeds were full of reed and sedge warblers all singing away, but drowned out by the incessant racket created by the ever present zitting cisticolas. Also here were more Moussier’s redstarts, an abundance of stonechat and plenty of laughing doves. Moving onto the bridge we failed to turn up the hoped-for little bittern but did repeatedly see a water rail as it crossed a channel in front of us – the bird flew back and forth and occasionally squealed like a pig – presumably feeding young?

Driving on through the village we came to a stretch of road that overlooked the reserve and from here we could see a small flock of glossy ibis in the distance – we were to get better views of four later in the day. Lunch was taken by the gate, from where we could see a number of birds including pintail, wigeon, cormorant and loads of purple heron and even spotted 4 wild boar feeding on the far side.

After lunch we walked on towards the sea through light swarm of locusts that were being predated by flocks of gulls, as well as the occasional little owl and kestrel. The walk produced our first osprey and finally good views of Bonelli’s eagle. Arriving at the dunes we scanned out to sea fruitlessly for 15 minutes before settling back and enjoying the sun. We had experienced more than our fair share of overcast days on this trip and it was pleasant to be out in the sun and by the sea. Walking back to the vans we drove back to the bridge in the vain hope of a little bittern but did not find any. Eventually we headed back into Agadir along a coast road inhabited by very casual drivers.

Day 15.... Sunday 4th April
Oued Souss

Our last day was spent birding the Oued Souss estuary and taking it easy and doing some last minute shopping. In the morning we all worked the Souss estuary and were rewarded with a our only avocet of the trip and some rather high, over-flying collared pratincoles – the latter giving their tern-like flight call. Also here we had another two subadult Bonelli’s eagles. Arriving at the sea the winds were poor for sea-watching and the heat-haze made viewing almost impossible – through the haze we glimpsed occasional jaegers. With the wind coming from the east the day soon started to heat up and we elected to return to the hotel at 11 o’clock for a large lunch!

We split up in the afternoon and went out at 3 o’clock either to buy wine and then go birding along the Souss or to sight-see in Agadir. The birders enjoyed an ice cream and bought wine at the supermarket before heading out to enjoy the waterbirds along the Souss. They succeeded in reading another spoonbill ring as well as one on a flamingo. Dinner was spent recapping our adventures and saying goodbye to Said, before an early night.

Day 16....... Monday 5th April
Flight home.
~ Adrian Binns

MOROCCO March 20 – April 5, 2004

 

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES SEEN

 

BIRDS

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

            Common in freshwater lakes and lagoons along the coast

Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus

            Common in freshwater lakes, including breeders displaying at Sidi Bourhaba

North Gannet Morus bassanus

            6 off the coast at Moulay Bousselham; 30+ off Cape Ghir

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

            Common at Sidi Bourhaba; a few off Cape Ghir of the race maroccanus and at least a dozen at

            Massa and the Souss estuary

Shag Phalacrocorax aeristotelis

            1 juvenile flying over the surf at the Massa of the Moroccan race riggenbachi

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

            3 seen at Sidi Bourhaba; 12 off coast at Moulay Bousselham; 1 calling over the hotel at      Ouarzazate and 2 at Massa

Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides

            1 seen at Sidi Bourhaba; 2 outside Kenitra; 6 at Massa

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

            Abundant in agricultural areas and freshwater lakes along the coast

Western Reef Heron Egretta gularis

            1 juvenile at Barrage El Mansour in Ouarzazate of the race schistacea

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

            Common in freshwater

Great White Egret Ardea alba

            3 flying to roost at Sidi Bourhaba

Gray Heron Ardea cinerea

            1 flying to roost at Sidi Bourhaba; 3 at Merjda Zerga; 30+ at Souss and several at Massa

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

            3 at Sidi Bourhaba; 4 at Merdja Zerga; 1 at Aoulouz Gorge and 2 dozen at Massa

White Stork Ciconia ciconia

            Common in rural lowlands and a few in Middle Atlas and on the Souss; many nests seen; a group   of 500 coming into roost at Barrage El Mansour

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus

            9 seen at Massa

Bald Ibis Geronticus eremite

            20 at Tamri including 9 flying over our heads

Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia

            9 at Barrage El Mansour; 14 at Tamri; 20 at the Souss estuary

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus

            100+ at Merja Zerga; 159 at the Souss estuary

Ruddy Shelduck Tadoma ferruginea

            70 plus at Lac de Aguelmana; about 20 at Barrage El Mansour; 1 at Aoulouz Gorge

Eurasian Wigeon Anas Penelope

            A pair at Massa

Gadwall Anas strepera

            2 at Sidi Mousselham; 1 at Lac de Aguelmana

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos

            Common at Sidi Bourhaba; a few at Merja Zerga, Lac de Aguelmana; Barrage El Mansour and

            a few at Massa

Northern Pintail Anas clypeata

            1 male at Massa

Garganey Anas querquedula

            3 male and a female at Dayet Aoua

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata

            20+ at Sidi Bourhaba; 40 at Dayet Aoua

 

Marbled Teal Marmaronetta angustirostris

            25 at Sidi Bourhaba; 1 at Barrage El Mansour; 2 at Massa

Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina

            20+ at Sidi Bourhaba

Pochard Aythya ferina

            Common at Sidi Bourhaba; 1 at Massa

Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca

            6 at Sidi Bourhaba

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula

            Several pairs at Sidi Bourhaba

White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala

            1 female at Sidi Bourhaba was a nice find…thanks, Bob

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus

            3 in the Souss Valley

Black Kite Milvus milvus

            Good numbers moving through, all of the Western race

Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus

            2 at Igli in the Sous Valley, including a light morph; 1 at Aoulouz Gorge

Eurasian Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus

            Common near freshwater with good numbers of males

Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus

            1 stunning male at close quarters in great light at Merja Zerga and another near by; 2 on the

            Tagdilt Track; 3 males over the Tiz-n-Tichka

Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus

            1 at Volubilis; 3 in the Forest de Cedars

Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus cirtensis

            1 in the Zaers; 2 in the Forest de Cedars; 2 at Dayet Aoua; 1 on the Tagdilt Track; 3 on the Tiz-n-

            Tichka; 1 near Oukaimeden; 3 at Aoulouz Gorge

Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos homeyeri

            1 at Oukaimeden

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus

            2 over Merdja Zerga; 2 at Volubilis; 2 at Dayet Aoua; 3 at Forest de Cedars; 1 east of Jorf; 1 over

            the Tiz-n-Test; 5 in the Sous Valley; pale and dark morphs at Aoulouz Gorge

Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus

            1 over the Todra Gorge; 1 sub-adult at Massa and 2 juveniles at the Souss estuary

Osprey Pandion haliaetus

            1 at Massa

Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni

            Common around towns and cities

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus        

            Common seen most days

Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus erlangeri

            2 5km outside of Rissani; 1 hunting and catching a Rock Pigeon in Taroudannt

Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus

            1 at Merdja Zerga of the minor race; 1 at Aoulouz Gorge of the brookei race

Barbary Falcon Falco pelegrinoides

            1 along the coast near Tamri

Barbary Partridge Alectoris Barbara koenigi

            Heard in the Zaers; 1 seen 138 km from Marrakech on the Tiz-n-Tichka; 3 at Oukaimeden; 2 at

            Massa and 2 at the Souss estuary

Double-spurred Francolin Francolinus bicalcaratus ayesha

            About a dozen heard, some to within 20 meters in the Zaers

Common Quail Coturnix cortunix

            Heard at Casablanca airport, Volubilis, Massa and in the Sous Valley; 4 seen near Freija

Water Rail Rallus aquaticus

            1 at Massa flying back and forth across a narrow channel

Spotted Crake Porzane porzane

            1 spotted briefly amongst the juncos before vanishing

Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

            6 at Sidi Bourhaba; 2 at Merdja Zerga; 1 at Aoulouz Gorge; 2 at Massa and 4 at the Souss

 

Common Coot Fulica atra

            Good numbers at Sidi Bourhaba, Merdja Zerga, Massa and a few at Souss

Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata

            50 plus at Sidi Bourhaba and 40 plus at Dayet Aoua

Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus

            8 at a distance at Mehdya; 1 at Arghoud Beach; 6 at the Souss estuary

Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta

            1 at the Souss estuary

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

            Common in freshwater lakes and pools

Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus

            1 in the road in the Zaers and several heard there; heard at the Red-necked Nightjar spot just

            outside of Taradannt; 11 at the Souss estuary and 2 at Massa

Cream-colored Courser Cursorius cursor

            2 20km south of Amergzane at the base of the Tiz-n-Tichka

Collared Pratincole Glareola prantincola

            About 15 flying over at the Souss estuary

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius curonicus

            2 at Sidi Bourhaba; 30 plus at Merdja Zerga; 1 in the desert; 6 at Barrage El Mansour; a few

            at the Souss estuary

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula

            Abundant at Merja Zerga, Massa and at the Souss estuary

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus

            Common at Merdja Zerga; 3 in the desert; 2 at Barrage El Mansour; small numbers at Massa and

            abundant at the Souss estuary

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola

            20+ at Merdja Zerga; 70+ at the Souss estuary

Red Knot Calidris canutus

            6 at Merdja Zerga; 9 at the Souss estuary

Sanderling Calidris alba

            20 at Merdja Zerga; 40+ at the Souss estuary and a dozen at Massa

Little Stint Calidris minuta

            Common in freshwater; 1 in the desert

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

            2 at Merdja Zerga; 7 at the Souss estuary

Dunlin Calidris alpine

            Common at Merdja Zerga and the Souss estuary including at least 1 of the race artica

Ruff Philomachus pugnax

             1 at Merdja Zerga; 4 at the Souss estuary; 1 at Massa

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago

            2 at Merdja Zerga; 1 at Barrage El Mansour; 1 at Massa

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa

            11 at the Souss estuary; 3 at Massa

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica

            2 at the Souss estuary

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus

            2 at the Souss estuary

Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata

            7 at Merdja Zerga; 3 at the Souss estuary

Redshank Tringa tetanus

            Common in freshwater and tidal areas

Greenshank Tringa nebularia

            Common at Merdja Zerga and the Souss estuary; 6 at Barrage El Mansour; 1 at Massa

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

            Small numbers at freshwater sites

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

            15 plus at Barrage El Mansour; 3 at Massa and 1 at the Souss

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

            Individuals at Sidi Bourhaba, Dayet Aoua, Massa and Souss estuary

Arctic Skua Stercorarius parasiticus

            1 at Mehdiya; 1 off Moulay Boussellam; 1 off Cape Ghir and 2 off the Souss estuary

Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus

            1 2nd year at Moulay Boussellam

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus

            Small numbers on the northern coast and common at the Souss estuary

Slender-billed Gull Larus genei

            Small numbers seen well in the Souss estuary

Audouin’s Gull Larus audouinii

            30+ at Moullay Boussellam; 11 at Arghoud Beach; 16 at Tamri; 6 at Massa and at least a

            dozen at the Souss estuary

Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus

            Very common along the coast – all of the race intermedius

Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans

            Abundant along the coast – all of the race michahellis

Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica

            2 at Moullay Boussellham; 45 at the Souss estuary; 5 at Massa

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia

            2 at Merjda Zerga

Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis

            50+ at Moullay Boussellham; 13 at Arghoud Beach; 21 at Massa and 40+ at the Souss estuary

Little Tern Sterna albifrons

            4 at the Souss estuary

Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis      

            18 south of Midelt; 15 on the Tagdilt Track

Rock Pigeon Columba livia

            Seen daily in good numbers (what a surprise), though some where actually ‘real ones’

Stock Pigeon Columba oenas

            Several in the Forest de Cedars; 1 on the Tiz-n-Tichka; 4 at Aoulouz Gorge; 4 over the Tiouti

            Palmery

Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus

            Small numbers in the Zaers, Forest de Cedars, Tiz-n-Tichka, Tiz-n-Test; Souss Valley and at

            Massa

Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

            Common seen daily….expanding its range fast!

European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur

            1 at Sidi Bourhaba; Common in the Souss Valley and at Massa

Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis

            1 at Meski; 15 at Massa

Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus

            1 seen in the Zaers, where many were heard

Pharaoh Eagle Owl Bubo bobo

            1 of the race desertorum 5 km west of Rissani

Little Owl Athene noctua

            2’s and 3’s in the north, and at least 10 at Massa – all of the race glaux

Marsh Owl Asio capensis tingitanus

            1 seen well at dusk at Sidi Bourhaba

Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus

            Heard just outside of Taroudannt

Red-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus ruficollis

            2 seen exceptionally well, down to a foot, just outside Taroudannt

Egyptian Nightjar Caprimulgus aegyptius saharae

            1 at the Kasbah Derkaoua

Alpine Swift Apus melba

            Common from Kenitra to Fez and in Taroudannt; 1 in Agadir

Swift Apus apus

            Good numbers at Casablanca airport

Pallid Swift Apus pallidus brehmorum

            Common in towns and cities

Little Swift Apus affinis galilejensis

            1 at Casablanca airport; 30 between Kenitra and Fez; common at Taroudannt; a few at Massa

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis

            1female at Aoulouz gorge

Bee-eater Merops apiaster

            Good numbers seen on migration, generally in small flocks, though some numbering well over

            100 where seen in the Sous Valley

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicuc chrysocercus

            Upwards of 40 seen in Erfoud and smaller numbers in Rissani and west of Jorf

Hoopoe Upupa epops

            1 or 2 seen most days

Wryneck Jynx torquilla

            1 in the desert wadi at Kasbah Derkaoua

Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker Picus vaillantii

            2 at Dayet Aoua; 3 at 10 km north of Oukaimeden

Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major mauritanus

            1 heard drumming in the Zaers; 3 seen at Dayet Aoua

Bar-tailed Lark Ammomanes cincturus arenicolor

            2 west of Jorf

Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti

            2 at the Gorge du Todra; 1 at the Tagdilt Track and 1 east of Ouarzazate, all of the race

            algeriensis

Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes

            6 a day in the desert and on the Tagdilt Track, including some beautiful displays

Dupont’s Lark Chersophilus duponti

            1 that co-operated very nicely on the Zeida Plain and many heard singing

Thick-billed Lark Rhamphocoris clotbey

            A pair feeding 4 juveniles on the Zeida Plain

Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra

            1 seen by Phil’s van between Casablanca and Rabat

Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla

            3 on the Zeida Plain; 100+ east of Boumalne; 30+ on the Tagdilt track and 1 at the Souss

Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens minor

            6 on the Zeida Plain; 6 near Merzouga and heard on the Tagdilt track

Crested Lark Galerida cristata

            Small numbers between Casablanca and Fez of the race kleinschmidti; small numbers in the arid

            areas east of the Atlas of the race macrorhyncha; common in the Souss Valley of the race

            riggenbachi including a nest with 4 young at the Tiouti Palmery

Thekla Lark Galerida theklae

            Common between Casablanca and Middle Atlas of the race erlangeri and between Jorf and

            Ouarzazate of the race superflua; common in the Souss Valley these being ruficolor

Wood Lark Lullula arborea pallida

            1 in the orchard at Dayet Aoua

Sky Lark Alauda arvensis

            1 between Casablanca and Rabat

Shore (Horned) Lark Eremophila alpestris atlas

            Up to 30 seen daily at Oukaimeden

Temminck’s Lark Eremophila bilopha

            2 on the Zeida Plain and up to 15 seen daily on the Tagdilt Track

Plain Martin Riparia paludicola mauritanica

            1 seen west of Ouarzazate; 11 at Massa

Sand Martin Riparia riparia

            8 seen around Merdja Zerga; common near Skoura; 2 in Taroudannt; 3 at Massa

Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris

            Common in higher elevations

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica

            Common to abundant on most days

Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica rufula

            2 near Kasbah Derkaoua; common in the Souss Valley

House Martin Delichon urbica

            Seen on most days in small numbers

Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis

            2 at Ait Benhaddou

Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis

            Small numbers seen Merdja Zegra, Barrage El Mansour and in Souss Valley

Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta

            1 on each day at Oukaimeden

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava

            Common in Souss Valley; seen in small numbers elsewhere. Iberiae being more common than

            flava, the blue-headed race

Gray Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

            Up to 5 seen at Gorge du Todra, Oukaimeden, Aoulouz Gorge and Tiouti Palmery

White Wagtail Motacilla alba

            Only a few seen at Merdja Zerga, Rissani, Ait Benhaddou, Aoulouz Gorge. The Moroccan race

            subpersonata was seen at Rissani, Barrage El Mansour and the Souss

Common Bulbul Pyconotus barbatus

            Seen daily and abundant at Tiouti Palmery

White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus minor

            2 seen at Oukaimeden on each day

Wren Troglodytes troglodytes kabylorum

            3 singing birds seen well at Oukaimeden

Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris

            1 stunner at Oukaimeden

Robin Erithacus rubecula

            1 heard at Forest de Zaers

Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos

            Heard on 5 days and seen at Ait Benhaddou and Aoulouz Gorge

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica

            1 seen briefly by Phil at Massa

Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros gibraltariensis

            Common at Oukaimeden

Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus

            1’s and 2’s on most days with a few more being seen in the Souss valley

Moussier’s Redstart Phoenicurus moussieri

            At least 3 seen on 7 days and common at Massa

Stonechat Saxicola torquata rubicola

            5 at Volubilis and 1 at Ait Benhaddou and common at Massa

Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe

            Seen on most days in small numbers. Seebohmi the Moroccan race was common in the Middle

            Atlas and also seen on the Tagdilt Track. 1 bird of the darker Greenland race leucorhoa was seen

            west of Jorf

Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica

            Seen very well in small numbers on 8 days

Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti homochroa

            Up to 6 seen on the Zeida Plain, in the desert and east of the High Atlas in the arid desert

Red-rumped Wheatear Oenanthe moesta

            Up to 6 seen on 4 days including singing ‘tea-kettling’ birds on the Zeida Plain and Tagdilt track

Mourning Wheatear Oenanthe lugens halophila

            2 birds 55 km east of Ouarzazate and 1 south of Amergzane

White-crowned Wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga

            Common in the desert and arid regions east of the High Atlas

Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura syenitica

            Seen in small numbers on rock outcroppings at higher elevations with more than 10 at

            Oukaimeden

Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius

            1 in the Forest du Cedars; 1 near Lac de Aquelmana; 1 near Rissani and several at Oukaimeden,

            and Aoulouz Gorge

Ring Ouzel Turdus torquatus

            2 at Lac de Aquelmana and 1 at Oukaimeden of the race alpestris and 1 of the nominate race in

            the Middle Atlas

Blackbird Turdus merula mauretanicus

            Common seen daily

Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus deichleri

            Seen in small numbers at mid elevations on 5 days

Cetti’s Warbler Cettia cetti

            Heard around freshwater and seen well at Massa and Volubilis

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis

            Abundant in agricultural areas west of the Atlas in the Souss valley

Grasshopper Warbler Locustella naevia

            Heard on 2 occasions in the Souss valley

Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon

            1 at the Aoulouz Gorge

Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus

            1 at Aoulouz Gorge and 8 at Massa

Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus

            1 heard at the Barrage El Mansour; 1 seen at Ait Benhaddou; 2 at Aoulouz Gorge and 9 at

            Massa

Western Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida opaca

            1 at Ait Benhaddou; 1 at Ouled Brahim and Massa; heard around Freija; at the Kasbah

            Derkaoua 1 of the Saharan race reiseri was seen

Melodious Warbler Hippolais polyglotta

            1 at Ait Benhaddou seen by Ron

Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata

            1 at the lunch stop on the Tiz-n-Test

Tristram’s Warbler Sylvia deserticola maroccana

            4 on the breeding ground on the Tiz-n-Test

Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans

            Small numbers seen on 10 days

Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala

            Abundant in the Souss valley and along the northern coast

African Desert Warbler Sylvia deserti

            2 showing well at the wadi next to the Auberge Said

Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis

            1 at the lunch spot on the Tiz-n-Test and 1 at Tiouti Palmery

Whit