Northern India contains some of the world's most impressive wildlife and cultural spectacles. Famous Bharatpur is renowned amongst birdwatchers and wildlife photographers worldwide. A fabulous array of herons, storks, cranes and wildfowl awaits us. Imperial and Spotted Eagles hunt over jheels inhabited by Purple Gallinules, Pheasant-tailed Jacanas and improbably tall Sarus Cranes. Woodlands are home to Long-tailed Nightjars, Dusky Eagle Owls and Siberian Rubythroats and other attractions in this remarkable wetland include Porcupines, Jackals, magnificent Rock Pythons and the graceful Jungle Cat. Only a short distance from Bharatpur lies one of the most beautiful works of man, Shah Jahan's love immortalized in marble, the incomparable Taj Mahal.
© Adrian Binns
Rajastan's beautiful Ranthambhor National Park will keep us enthralled with its rich and abundant mammal fauna including that ultimate predator - the Tiger! A magnificent eleventh century fort overlooks forests, lakes and grasslands inhabited by Blackbuck, Blue Bull, Wild Boar, Sambar, Sloth Bear and a rich variety of birds. An extension takes us 6000' up into the Himalayan foot hills at Nainital where we can savor a completely new set of birds as well as magnificent views of the high Himalaya, and then down to the lovely Quality Inn and Corbett National Park where the variety of birds and mammals is quite extraordinary. These legendary locations can be savored from the comfort of some superbly located lodges and hotels, allowing us to enjoy and photograph India's classic wildlife at our leisure.
Itinerary
Day 1: Overnight flight from US to Europe or direct from Chicago to Delhi
Day 2: Arrive in the evening in Delhi. Overnight: Delhi
Day 3: Transfer to Jaipur. |
Jaipur Palace
© Adrian Binns
© Adrian Binns
Day 4:
This morning we’ll visit the spectacular Amber Fort where we will ride elephants to the main courtyard. After lunch we drive to Sawai Madhopur our base for the next 5 nights.
We couldn't be better placed than at Castle Jhumar Baori as it is on the scarp slope (and thus has tremendous views all around), which marks the boundary of this majestic un-spoilt remnant of the great jungles of Central India. Ironically Ranthambhor escaped destruction largely because it was the favored hunting ground of the Maharaja of Jaipur. It became one of the first Project Tiger reserves and has since developed into an outstanding National Park.
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Because of the strict protection enjoyed by the Tigers they became active by day and thus much more visible to visitors. Ranthambhor's friendly Tigers, as they became known, are frequently encountered in broad daylight (except for a period several years back when poaching again reared its ugly head).While we cannot guarantee sightings of these beautiful but elusive animals, we have given ourselves a fine opportunity of seeing and hopefully photographing them with four and a half days in the park - and it is likely that we shall see them on more than one occasion!
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Impressively large numbers of Sambar and Spotted Deer (Chital) also graze these grasslands and are sometimes joined by Indian Gazelles (Chinkara). Mammals we may encounter are Brown Mongoose, Golden Jackal, and Sloth Bear, the latter being not uncommon in the park. Other cats are here too: Jungle Cats can sometimes be seen stalking sandgrouse or doves in the grasslands in the beautiful evening light. Leopards sometimes saunter across the tracks, particularly in the steep and wooded hills surrounding the hugely impressive Rajput fort of Ranthambhor, which overlooks the park's main lake. Hanuman Langurs frequent the battlements whilst overhead Bonelli's Eagles and Crested Serpent Eagles soar.
Sounders (herds) of Wild Boar are a common sight by the small lakes which dot the wonderful dry deciduous woodlands and tawny grasslands, which make such a beautiful landscape. Peacocks swagger through these open woodlands - they are abundant - and above them Small Minivets, White-bellied Drongos and Blossom-headed Parakeets perch in fruiting trees, often in company with groups of Indian Tree-pies and Yellow-legged Green Pigeons. Stork-billed Kingfishers, their huge dagger-like bills making them look top-heavy, hunt along small rivers inhabited by Mugger Crocodiles and the secretive Brown Crake.
Outside the park are arid grasslands, which are home to Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Indian Courser and the Bengal Fox. At Lake Soorwhal we can find a rich variety of birds and herds of the rare Blackbuck. Immaculate males, their beautiful black-and-tan coats contrasting with their strikingly white bellies and superb two-foot long spiraled horns, are a really magnificent sight. This is a superb birdwatching site with the possibility of flocks of Demoiselle Cranes, White Pelicans and lots of waders including Great Thick-knee and Small Pratincoles.
After a morning visit to the lovely 11th century Ranthambhor Fort we take the early afternoon train to Bharatpur, where we’ll be based at the beautiful Bagh for 7 nights.
Keoladeo Ghana National Park - known to birdwatchers the world over simply as Bharatpur, is one of the most important wetlands in the world. Packed into just 29 square kilometres are a wide diversity of birds, no less than 350 species having been recorded. Perhaps the most delightful aspect of Bharatpur is the approachability of the wildlife. This, combined with the extreme abundance, makes this paradise an absolute mecca for wildlife photographers the world over.
© Adrian Binns |
Early mornings are quite magical as mists rise from the water-lily bedecked jheels, obscuring the legs of a stately Blue Bull as it stands by a row of Jamun trees, these covered in the ghostly shapes of numerous Painted Storks - this is what Bharatpur is all about! Bharatpur was originally constructed by diverting local irrigation canals back in the late 19th century. This was so that the local Maharaja could indulge his passion for wildfowling and in so doing he created a wetland masterpiece. However, the hunting stopped over thirty-five years ago and nowadays vehicles are kept out and all is quiet. Except that is, for the feeding frenzy of the vast numbers of birds! |
It has been estimated that Bharatpur's Painted Storks take 1200 tonnes of food per square mile during the time it takes to raise their chicks. And that, as they say, is a lot of frogs! In fact the waters are thick with life, a veritable living soup of frogs, toads, snails, terrapins, pondweed, carp, catfish and waterlilies. All this food sustains one of the biggest heronries in the world as well as several species of stork. The largest is the Black-necked Stork, which stands nearly five feet tall and can be seen from a vast distance, which is just as well, as they are now very rare! Taller still are Sarus Cranes, which move solemnly through sedgebeds, looking skyward as flocks of Common Cranes descend noisily from the sky, their clarion calls ringing atmospherically across the marshes. Bharatpur was perhaps best known for its wintering Siberian Cranes, one of the world's rarest birds, but in recent years they have been absent – the western population likely now gone. Cormorants, Darters and the comical-looking Comb Duck are all common, and stunning Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas decorate the Sapan Mari Jheel. Brightly colored kingfishers, bee-eaters and rollers flash past Babul trees overhanging pools where Purple Gallinules chunter away in reeds like demented purple chickens.
Amidst the forest dotted by pools and only a few minutes walk from the nearest jheels, Bluethroats, Orange-headed Ground Thrushes, Indian Grey Hornbills and Coppersmiths inhabit the nearby cover as do roosting Long-tailed Nightjars, confident in their beautiful cryptic camouflage. Spotted Owlets roost in the garden and we'll hear the deep hoarse hoots of Dusky Horned Owls - these often perch on nearby treetops as dusk approaches - while cute Collared Scops Owls peer down at us from their roosts. Raptors really are exceptional at Bharatpur, with Imperial Eagle, Spotted Eagle, Red-headed Vulture and the ubiquitous Crested Serpent Eagle all-featuring. Dry lands offer yet another selection with Sirkeer Malkoha, Yellow-wattled Lapwing and the beautiful Red Avadavat, whilst beautifully patterned Rock Pythons bask in the sunshine. Bharatpur is also fantastic for mammals. Sambar and Blue Bull will be sighted daily whilst boisterous groups of Wild Boar splash in the shallows. Rhesus Macaques argue noisily in Kadam trees and Common Grey Mongoose wander along the paths as if they own them! Golden Jackals are easily seen near the lodge and at night it is possible to watch Rufous-tailed Hares and Indian Porcupines in the garden!
On one of the days we’ll visit Agra and the Taj Mahal. The zenith of Moghul architecture and one of the most fabulous monuments in the world is found in Agra, capital of all India under the Moghuls. The Taj Mahal is one of the few places in the world that can truly transcend the hordes of tourists and accompanying fripperies. This magnificent building is an experience not to be missed. Don't leave the optics behind though for along the Yamuni River are Black-bellied Tern and River Lapwing. Later we visit the vast Agra Fort whose red sandstone ramparts protect wonderful pavilions of such intricate workmanship and mosques and audience halls decorated with ornate pillars inlaid with jasper and lapis lazuli. |
© Adrian Binns |
One another day we’ll a full day excursion to Bund Bertha where we have a good chance of seeing the rare Indian Skimmer. Great Thick-knees and Asian Openbills can usually be found along the shoreline and an assortment of thrushes and warblers in the scrub and woodland vegetation.
For those continuing on the extension, we will be taking the overnight sleeper train from Delhi to Lalkuan/Kathgodam. For those that are leaving us you will have a room to freshen up before heading to the airport to catch your return flight to the US, usually late at night or early the following morning.
To complete your sampling of Northern India's fabulous and varied wildlife why not join our extension which takes us by train into the foothills of the Himalaya and then high into a resort beloved of Delhi's inhabitants, both now and during the British Raj - the hill station at Nainital, where we’ll be based for 2 nights. Now its elegance has faded somewhat but the picturesque town still retains a charm not least from its magnificent position over six thousand feet up and nestling below the aptly named Snow View Ridge. The panorama of great Himalayan peaks (including 26,000 foot Nanda Devi) away to the north is quite astounding and the birdwatching is excellent too with Lammergeiers and Himalayan Griffon Vultures soaring over the convoluted landscape.
the Himalayas
© Adrian Binns
© Adrian Binns
Various laughingthrushes and accentors are on the agenda and in woodlands are some of the glorious jewels of these hills such as Golden Bush Robin, Fire-capped Tit, Red-flanked Bluetail and the immaculate Red-billed Blue Magpie. In Nainital's parks, gardens, meadows and pine forests we can see Black-headed Jay and the stunning Great Barbet whilst brilliantly coloured Slaty-headed Parakeets are abundant. It is a three-hour journey back downhill to the wonderful Quality Inn, a wonderful wildlife lodge, where we'll spend two nights here and two at the basic Dhikala compound in Corbett as we explore the Kosi River valley and Corbett National Park. This is a fantastically rich area. Fabulous White-crested Laughing Thrushes will wake us with their maniacal laughter whilst Pallas's Fish Eagles and Mountain Hawk Eagles patrol the skies above the Inn. Both Tawny and Brown Fish Owls roost in trees down by the Kosi River where beautiful White-crowned and Plumbeous Water-Redstarts as well as the stunning Spotted Forktail live. Wintering Wallcreepers are not uncommon here and there is always the chance of an Ibisbill! Jungle Cats, Leopards and Tigers are all possible here and inside Corbett, where the supporting cast includes Hog Deer and birds such as the gorgeous Green Magpie, elegant Kalij Pheasant, Red Junglefowl, an amazing variety of woodpeckers, bulbuls and drongos and the rapacious Collared Falconet, itself no bigger than a Chaffinch. By the unspoilt banks of the Ramganga River we can watch the Gharial, a prehistoric-looking fish-eating croc, whilst strident Himalayan Crested Kingfishers patrol the banks.
On the last day we return to Delhi by road, crossing the Ganges en-route. We’ll have a room to freshen up before heading to the airport to catch our late evening return flight back to the US.
Leaders: Adrian Binns and local guides.
Group Size: The minimum is 6 and the maximum is 15. Only one leader will accompany a group of 9 or less.
Cost: $5,5000.00 for the full trip, based upon double occupancy.
Single supplement: $890.00
Rajastan only, Jan 7-23 $3700.00. Single supplement $590.00
Nainital & Corbett extension, Jan 22-30 $1800.00. Single supplement $300.00
Please note that if you do not request a single room, and we are unable to find you a roommate, you will be charged the single supplement.
Cost includes: All accommodations, transportation, meals, entrance fees and services of the leaders and local guides.
Cost does not include: Airfare, travel insurance, drinks, tips, visa and items of a personal nature.
Deposit: $500.00 along with your registration form
Balance Due: full payment is due October 7, 2007